The simplest finger workout in the known universe. Grab an edge, and pull hard on it. Your plan may specify an RPE to pull to (think RPE7 = pull at 70% of your max effort.)
Instructions:
Usually, this is performed on a 20-30mm edge. Your plan might make a suggestion of edge size or load. The elbow should be around 120-150 degrees. We’re looking for a 3-5 second time under tension on each pull; that’s after the initial 1-2 seconds to come up to maximum force. Don’t worry about generating force quickly. This is a maximum strength exercise.
To make the exercise harder, you can use a smaller edge or pull harder by holding weight in your other hand. To make the exercise easier, use a larger edge or keep more weight on your feet on the ground.
This exercise is a “full chain” style pull: with a bent elbow, you are allowed to involve the arm, shoulder and entire body to create passive tension through the fingers.
Here’s an example video with a chisel-grip (the closest I can get to true open hand on an edge) on a campus rung, and a half crimp pull on the BM2000 middle edge. I can’t one-arm either of these grips/edges at the time of recording this, so my feet try to come off the ground but they can’t. That’s it!
For single pulls, rest between reps until you are ready to give another maximum effort – at least 1-2 minutes per arm.
Your plan may specify to do these pulls in a “clustered” fashion, like “2x 2-3” – in this case, rest 5-10 seconds and pull again for the number of reps, then rest 1-2 minutes per arm before your next set.