Optional warmup:
If doing this session on a non-climbing day, warm up by doing a series of progressive hangs on the grips you are training. The below is an example.
5x 5:5 repeater on jug or 30mm edge (feet on ground if needed)
Rest 1 min
5x 5:5 repeater on 30mm edge (feet on ground if needed)
Rest 1 min
5x 5:5 repeater on 30mm edge (feet on ground if needed)
Rest 1 min
5x 5:5 repeater on training grip 1 (feet on ground if needed)
Rest 1 min
5x 5:5 repeater on training grip 2 (feet on ground if needed)
Rest 1 min
Load determination:
These can be done as max hangs, no-hangs, or horizontal pulling. Use weight or just pull hard as an isometric. Rest 1 minute between warmup and 2 minutes between working hangs. A 20-25mm edge is good for this; your plan may prescribe some other grip.
Instructions:
20-25mm edge open hand 10 seconds – 2 warmup sets @ RPE5 (60% max)
20-25mm edge half crimp 10 seconds – 2 warmup sets @ RPE5 (60% max)
20-25mm edge open hand 7 seconds – 2 working sets @ RPE7 (85% max)
20-25mm edge half crimp 7 seconds – 2 working sets @ RPE7 (85% max)
* Note: “% max” includes bodyweight. So these loads may be bodyweight or less depending on your strength level. If you need help with the calculations, please let me know.