Instagram Index

Instagram is great for conveying information over time, but really rough for going back and finding information after the fact. This is an index of my Instagram posts that should be more searchable.

Hangtime, learning to work with momentum and being comfortable detaching from the wall

Time is the only secret ingredient

One-armed climbing

Being comfortable with not knowing, curiosity, self-discovery

Selecting problems appropriately for training

Generating power from fewer contact points (Snapbacks)

Training the dead zone for tall climbers

Building your base with pyramids

Daily practice, hip flexibility, always be practicing

Seeing goals clearly is more important than training

Preparation for performance; practicing specific moves; Beautification V11, Leavenworth WA

Timing of physical gains, being patient with training

Scarcity vs abundance mindset; climbing as a very long-term life style

Turbulence V11, Leavenworth, WA / general thoughts on successful summer training & fall climbing season

Tick marks make you soft

General thoughts on warmup

Nov 2021 Warmup routine

Pad placement 101

Reducing clutter, skill vs challenge level graph, applied flow psychology

Arousal level: aggression, tension, curiosity, focus. “Getting in the zone”

Hip lockoffs

2022 philosophy #1: form good relationships with the mundane

Simplicity & specificity

2022 philosophy #2: motivation must be earned

Climbing confidently & developing a habit of sending

2022 philosophy #3: start from where you’re at

Hold taps / kinesthetic priming

Warming up with a tension flash board

2022 philosophy #4: do the work

Picking a project (accessible, motivating, challenging)

Maximizing opportunities to ensure progress

Confidence habit

Evaluating a training plan: guide for self-coached climbers

Conservation of momentum (video analysis)

Reel: Don’t forget to enjoy it

External vs internal conditions

Kick ass 🙂

Mini lecture: maximizing your enjoyment of climbing

Sending is pass/fail, performance is not

Reel: Torso axes.& awareness (roll / pitch / yaw)

Mini lecture: tactics 101

Quality first for strength & movement practice (quality feedback loop)

Mini lecture: climbing alone safely; High Desert Drifter V8 & Cowboy Bebop V9

Movement cueing science

Warmup routine for spring 2022

Mini lecture: repeating hard things multiple times through your career; Bombay Direct V9

Reel: Do boulderers really need to strength train?

c4hp clinic report

Athlete testing philosophy

Finding your gearshift

Reel of me slipping on the crash pads like a dingus

Reel: motivation, satisfaction and the red convertible

Focus on grades instead of skills

The balanced approach: strength vs skill is a false dichotomy

Practice first try climbing to be a better redpoint climber

Mini lecture: Don’t just do it, do it right

Primer on overtraining

Reel: progressive spraywall footwork

Reel: torso axes in action

Reel: basics of bouldering alone

Primer on injuries & setbacks

Nugget podcast 1

Reel: Footwork tension options

Grades vs skills: using skills to understand when to project

Weekly nugget 1

Weekly nugget 2

Objects in mirror essay

Reel: You can’t work on it all

Reel: climbing skill is terrain-specific

5 tips for topping out boulders

Reel: compilation of beached whale topouts

Explicit beta hinders the creative process

Progression zone

Best climber in the world post

Skill development reel

Flash: can’t succeed if you don’t try

Some repeats from a Carver session

Ways to do sub-bodyweight finger training without a pulley

First try ethics

Self doubt

Why bother essay

Practice to improve topout skills

Utilizing a spray wall for training

The Tornado V12, Leavenworth, WA / reflection on performance

Skin tactics: taping a flapper

Hell or High Water V11, Leavenworth, WA / visualizing

Stick with what works for you

Finished Product V9, Leavenworth, WA / reflecting on the season

Cold winter climbing tips

Rethinking should

Rhinosaur V6, Hueco Tanks, TX

The joy question essay

Reel: winter trip b-roll

Long trip performance

Free Willy v10, Hueco Tanks, TX / flash process

Lessons learned in Hueco

Have the resilience to climb like an idiot, but the wisdom not to

Nugget Podcast Fundamentals

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 1

McBain v8, Hueco Tanks, TX / Persistence

Factors, aside from strength, that impact your ability to climb a sequence

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 2

Filming yourself

Grades aren’t linear- wheel analogy

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 3

Tips for using a spray wall

Take small wins

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 4

Skill specifity- climbing moves

Setting on a spray wall

Climbing skill development

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 5

Improving your climbing experience, Bushcraft Boulders

Projecting: how often should you do it?

Dealing with peaks and valleys

The Nugget Fundamentals pt. 6

Principles of technique

April Fools’

KISS training

Injury tips

C4P Podcast

Bad Moon Rising, V2, Leavenworth

Sam’s Slab, Leavenworth

Icicle top out clinic

KISS training

Graviton, 7A, Fontainebleau

Non-physical factors in climbing performance

Le Carnage, 7B, Fontainebleau

Sur-prises, 7C, Fontainebleau

Non-physical factors in climbing performance – Identity

Meeting clients in Fontainebleau

Fontainebleau bouldering in a nutshell

Jet Set, 7A/+, Flash, Fontainebleau

Non-physical factors in climbing performance – Tactics

Symbiose, 7C, Fontainebleau

KISS training

Non-physical factors in climbing performance- Emotional Regulation

Miss Tick, 7C+, Fontainebleau

Climb sustainably

On Again Off Again, V10, Squamish/ Flash

Remembering your Beta

Happy birthday to Kim

Four-leaf clovers

KISS training

Barn doors and technique

Money Badger, V6, Sasquatch – ethics and politeness

Tactics for dealing with the sun

Basic bouldering etiquette

Fundamental rules of climbing

High on the Hog, v10, Foss River Road

Butt stuff Hip Drive

The Mirage, V6, Alpine boulding Washington

When should you do your finger training?

KISS training

When to stretch for climbing

Warming up for compression, PNW style

Climbing memes

Climbing positions: the triangle

Center Stage, V10, Prospect

Flexibility Mindset- It’s About Time, V5, Squamish

Climbing memes

Blogpost: Becoming weak and detrained

Finger strength assessments

Training logistics: being on time

Using your free leg in climbing

Climbing memes

KISS training

Alpine bouldering in the talus field west of Mt. Stuart

Monarch, V10, Leavenworth

Project tokens and paying attention

Climbing memes

Injury and fear

Finding flow

Endurance training on the wall

Reel: Capybara sending

Enjoyment is a motivator

Maximizing progression

Thunderdome Low, V11, Leavenworth

Random bouldering tips

Climbing memes

Dreaded Plateau

Measuring accomplishments by difficulty

Tips for plateaus

Meme: You’re the crux hold

The Nugget: Jesse Firestone returns

Visualization lecture: Camp 4 Patreon

Visualization lecture: Camp 4 Patreon

Nonsense Grades

Climbing log translations

Cougar Milker, V10/11, Leavenworth