Instagram is great for conveying information over time, but really rough for going back and finding information after the fact. This is an index of my Instagram posts that should be more searchable.
Hangtime, learning to work with momentum and being comfortable detaching from the wall Time is the only secret ingredient One-armed climbing Being comfortable with not knowing, curiosity, self-discovery Selecting problems appropriately for training Generating power from fewer contact points (Snapbacks) Training the dead zone for tall climbers Building your base with pyramids Daily practice, hip flexibility, always be practicing Seeing goals clearly is more important than training Preparation for performance; practicing specific moves; Beautification V11, Leavenworth WA Timing of physical gains, being patient with training Scarcity vs abundance mindset; climbing as a very long-term life style Turbulence V11, Leavenworth, WA / general thoughts on successful summer training & fall climbing season Tick marks make you soft General thoughts on warmup Nov 2021 Warmup routine Pad placement 101 Reducing clutter, skill vs challenge level graph, applied flow psychology Arousal level: aggression, tension, curiosity, focus. “Getting in the zone” Hip lockoffs 2022 philosophy #1: form good relationships with the mundane Simplicity & specificity 2022 philosophy #2: motivation must be earned Climbing confidently & developing a habit of sending 2022 philosophy #3: start from where you’re at Hold taps / kinesthetic priming Warming up with a tension flash board 2022 philosophy #4: do the work Picking a project (accessible, motivating, challenging) Maximizing opportunities to ensure progress Confidence habit Evaluating a training plan: guide for self-coached climbers Conservation of momentum (video analysis) Reel: Don’t forget to enjoy it External vs internal conditions Kick ass 🙂 Mini lecture: maximizing your enjoyment of climbing Sending is pass/fail, performance is not Reel: Torso axes.& awareness (roll / pitch / yaw) Mini lecture: tactics 101 Quality first for strength & movement practice (quality feedback loop) Mini lecture: climbing alone safely; High Desert Drifter V8 & Cowboy Bebop V9 Movement cueing science Warmup routine for spring 2022 Mini lecture: repeating hard things multiple times through your career; Bombay Direct V9 Reel: Do boulderers really need to strength train? c4hp clinic report Athlete testing philosophy Finding your gearshift Reel of me slipping on the crash pads like a dingus Reel: motivation, satisfaction and the red convertible Focus on grades instead of skills The balanced approach: strength vs skill is a false dichotomy Practice first try climbing to be a better redpoint climber Mini lecture: Don’t just do it, do it right Primer on overtraining Reel: progressive spraywall footwork Reel: torso axes in action Reel: basics of bouldering alone Primer on injuries & setbacks Nugget podcast 1 Reel: Footwork tension options Grades vs skills: using skills to understand when to project Weekly nugget 1 Weekly nugget 2 Objects in mirror essay Reel: You can’t work on it all Reel: climbing skill is terrain-specific 5 tips for topping out boulders Reel: compilation of beached whale topouts Explicit beta hinders the creative process
