Instagram Index

Instagram is great for conveying information over time, but really rough for going back and finding information after the fact. This is an index of my Instagram posts that should be more searchable.

Hangtime, learning to work with momentum and being comfortable detaching from the wall
Time is the only secret ingredient
One-armed climbing
Being comfortable with not knowing, curiosity, self-discovery
Selecting problems appropriately for training
Generating power from fewer contact points (Snapbacks)
Training the dead zone for tall climbers
Building your base with pyramids
Daily practice, hip flexibility, always be practicing
Seeing goals clearly is more important than training
Preparation for performance; practicing specific moves; Beautification V11, Leavenworth WA
Timing of physical gains, being patient with training
Scarcity vs abundance mindset; climbing as a very long-term life style
Turbulence V11, Leavenworth, WA / general thoughts on successful summer training & fall climbing season
Tick marks make you soft
General thoughts on warmup
Nov 2021 Warmup routine
Pad placement 101
Reducing clutter, skill vs challenge level graph, applied flow psychology
Arousal level: aggression, tension, curiosity, focus. “Getting in the zone”
Hip lockoffs
2022 philosophy #1: form good relationships with the mundane
Simplicity & specificity
2022 philosophy #2: motivation must be earned
Climbing confidently & developing a habit of sending
2022 philosophy #3: start from where you’re at
Hold taps / kinesthetic priming
Warming up with a tension flash board
2022 philosophy #4: do the work
Picking a project (accessible, motivating, challenging)
Maximizing opportunities to ensure progress
Confidence habit
Evaluating a training plan: guide for self-coached climbers
Conservation of momentum (video analysis)
Reel: Don’t forget to enjoy it
External vs internal conditions
Kick ass 🙂
Mini lecture: maximizing your enjoyment of climbing
Sending is pass/fail, performance is not
Reel: Torso axes.& awareness (roll / pitch / yaw)
Mini lecture: tactics 101
Quality first for strength & movement practice (quality feedback loop)
Mini lecture: climbing alone safely; High Desert Drifter V8 & Cowboy Bebop V9
Movement cueing science
Warmup routine for spring 2022
Mini lecture: repeating hard things multiple times through your career; Bombay Direct V9
Reel: Do boulderers really need to strength train?
c4hp clinic report
Athlete testing philosophy
Finding your gearshift
Reel of me slipping on the crash pads like a dingus
Reel: motivation, satisfaction and the red convertible
Focus on grades instead of skills
The balanced approach: strength vs skill is a false dichotomy
Practice first try climbing to be a better redpoint climber
Mini lecture: Don’t just do it, do it right
Primer on overtraining
Reel: progressive spraywall footwork
Reel: torso axes in action
Reel: basics of bouldering alone
Primer on injuries & setbacks
Nugget podcast 1
Reel: Footwork tension options
Grades vs skills: using skills to understand when to project
Weekly nugget 1
Weekly nugget 2
Objects in mirror essay
Reel: You can’t work on it all
Reel: climbing skill is terrain-specific
5 tips for topping out boulders
Reel: compilation of beached whale topouts
Explicit beta hinders the creative process